The sound was unmistakable, but the seals swam over to see what the sound might be. As our little tender drew near, the silhouette of a lone piper gasped for joy on a ledge that lured us to the tiny jetty in the Highlands.
The scene was gorgeous – his red kilt against green sea grass, framed by dark Scots pines and all reflected in the glassy lake.
Arriving at the lush and beautiful Inverewe Garden before opening time on this particular route meant we had the beautiful woodland and beach to ourselves for a good hour before other visitors descended the winding footpaths from the car park.
Go on deck: Caroline Hendrie boarded the Hebridean Princess (above) – a ‘floating country house hotel’ – for a tour around the islands of the Highlands
Above is the Arran Lounge on board. “The attentive and discreet service of the crew of 38 for a maximum of 50 passengers ensures a relaxed house party atmosphere,” says Caroline
The Hebridean Princess has 30 cabins on board, including 10 single cabins that “come in all shapes and sizes”. Pictured is the Bute Cabin
We’re sailing: Above the Queen, which is going on board in 2010
We might have been the first visitors, but it didn’t mean an early start. At 9am we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast on board the Hebridean Princess after an overnight anchorage in Loch Ewe.
Launched in 1964 as a car ferry to serve the Western Isles from Oban, the sturdy and nimble little vessel was converted into a floating country house hotel in 1989, complete with tartan drapes in the dining room, a wood paneled library, tweed sofas and a fireplace corner in the lounge.
The attentive and discreet service of the crew of 38 for a maximum of 50 passengers ensures a relaxed house party atmosphere, and the varied itineraries, which can be quickly adapted to choppy conditions, make the Hebridean Princess a hit with loyal fans who keep coming back book again, sometimes several times a year.
The most famous regulars are the royal family. In 2006 the Queen, who had sorely missed her annual holiday in Scotland with a cruise around the Outer Hebrides since her beloved yacht Britannia was retired in 1997, chartered the Hebridean Princess to celebrate her 80th birthday.
As in the olden days, the family enjoyed picnicking on secluded beaches so much that they took over the ship for another family vacation in 2010.
But it’s not just royal guests who get special treatment. On the second day of our cruise we had our own desert island adventure, landing on the uninhabited Isle Martin at the mouth of Loch Broom.
We had the run of the island which had been a center of herring healing until the early 19th century. On a path past the destroyed chapel and a medieval cross slab, we walked through overgrown meadows that were once used as cattle pastures by long-dead smallholders.
At the top of the hill a secluded cove stretches out before us, strewn with driftwood, the only sounds of the waves and oystercatchers.
The Hebridean Princess, pictured at Tobermory Pier on the Isle of Mull, was launched as a car ferry in 1964 to serve the western isles from Oban, only to be converted into a luxury cruise ship in 1989
Passengers aboard the Hebridean Princess may have a chance to see puffins on the cliffs of the Shiant Islands (above)
What should we find on our return to the jetty when one of the stewards unpacks a basket and sets a table with tea and coffee and a biscuit barrel filled with shortbread and whiskey.
As well as sturdy shoes and rain gear and something smarter for the evenings, on a week-long cruise you’ll need to pack outfits for two gala dinners – black tie or full Bonnie Prince Charlie for men and evening dress for women.
No two itineraries on the Hebridean Princess are the same, and there are some themed gardens or castles or walking or cycling accompanied by experts.
But rest assured that at almost every moment of your cruise, you will be surrounded by breathtakingly beautiful scenery, whether the ship is anchored overnight in a sheltered lake or teeming with puffins off the cliffs of the Shiant Isles or sailing to next destination during breakfast, lunch or dinner.
We were enchanted to see a rainbow around Lismore Lighthouse on our first night served with Oban Bay scallops as we sailed past on our first night. Another night we marveled at the Old Man of Stoer, the 200ft Sea Stack while tucking into our pudding (no one could resist the velvety cranachan prepared with a dash of drambuie).
Caroline remembers staring at the Old Man of Stoer upstairs during dinner. She says there is “staggeringly beautiful scenery” at almost every moment of your cruise
Caroline was delighted to see a rainbow around the Lismore Lighthouse pictured as she sailed past
Caroline’s itinerary included a stop at the ‘green and lovely’ Inverewe Garden by Loch Ewe (pictured).
As at a traditional country house party, guests change clothes for dinner and gather in the lounge for drinks and canapés. While most passengers opt for tables for two, there are two large tables that are sociable for singles, but also popular with couples, mothers and daughters and couples of friends who enjoy the conviviality of a dinner party each night.
After dinner it’s time for coffee and petit fours or a nightcap in the lounge (so many single malt whiskeys to try!) or an evening stroll on deck to watch the setting sun glide across the water and slip behind the mountains .
The 30 cabins onboard, 10 of which are singles, come in all shapes and sizes, and many come with rare cruise ship luxuries — both bathtubs and showers. But all have a decanter of whiskey and glasses on the dressing table and a kettle in the fridge along with fresh milk.
Caroline was enjoying a “deserted island adventure” on the uninhabited Isle Martin, pictured
Early risers can help themselves to hot drinks on Skye Deck from 7am while enjoying the wildlife – it’s prime time for spotting golden and sea eagles, otters and orcas.
Dolphins, porpoises and seals seem to be enjoying themselves at any time of the day from the lounge windows for everyone.
Everything but souvenirs from the kiosk at the front desk is included in the not inconsiderable rates — including free-flowing Taittinger champagne, whiskeys galore, excursions, and top-notch service. But the Hebridean Princess seems just as loved by her passengers for what’s not on board — no casino, pianist, dancing, background music, organized games, or children under 12.
Peace and tranquility, good conversation, great food and most importantly, priceless views of sea and shore are what a Hebridean Princess cruise is all about.
