Great British Boltholes: A stay in a wacky 16th-century inn in East Sussex, where the guest rooms are a mix of whimsical and chic and the ‘tastiest’ eggs are served for breakfast
- Richard Mellor checks into The Bell in the village of Ticehurst and states that “exuberance is the word here”
- His “vivid color” guest room features a windowsill, an old dentist’s chair, and a silver birch chest
- Four-time Chelsea Flower Show gold medalist Jo Thompson designed the “scented” back gardens
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Spike Milligan would have loved The Bell. The comedian once lived in Ticehurst and his wacky but always charming humor is reflected in his exuberant pub.
And exuberance is the word here. Dating back to 1560, this former coaching inn mixes antique elements with zany modern touches.
Take the main bar: the original, low-beamed ceiling appears at first to be held up by a rickety column of books.
Richard Mellor checks in at The Bell (above) in Ticehurst, East Sussex, a former coaching inn dating back to 1560
In the inn’s main bar, the “original low-beamed ceiling appears at first to be held up by a rickety column of books”.
For men, upside-down tenor horns have become urinals. In an adjoining parlor, bird sketches and a self-portrait by Graham Sutherland are typical of the inn’s eclectic artwork.
The Bell is more like a beloved aunt or uncle – the kind that wears crazy clothes and bakes incredible brownies.
Four-time Chelsea Flower Show gold medalist Jo Thompson designed the rear gardens. Summer cocktails can be slurped under a mulberry canopy next to fragrant rosemary bushes.
In the winter, The Bell focuses on indoor fun: comedy shows, art classes, and live music.
Rooms vary wildly in size, Richard says, adding that seven in the main inn “combine weirdness with chic.”
The bedrooms vary greatly in size. Seven at the Main Inn combines madness with chic – mannequins here, pendant lights there.
Our colorful double/twin room has a window seat, a vintage dentist’s chair and even a silver birch suitcase. The shower is hand-held and curtainless, but the medley of surrounding tiles is so pretty that’s forgiven.
Three fancier and more spacious lodges with oasthouse-like roofs line the garden. The larger, two-story love nest has a balcony overlooking the pub. Three more rooms are due next spring.
Ticehurst itself feels lively. The 14th-century church overlooks enticing independent shops and red-brick houses in the flowery lanes. Everyone we meet seems to like The Bell and be proud of it.
The property “blends antique features with zany modern touches,” according to Richard
During the colder months of the year, the Bell hosts comedy shows, art classes and live music
Four-time Chelsea Flower Show gold medalist Jo Thompson designed the inn’s rear gardens
There’s so much more to love in this corner of Sussex’s High Weald: pick your own fruit at Maynard’s Farm, fish at Bewl Water or visit Bateman’s, a National Trust property, Rudyard Kipling’s preserved home, and Pashley Manor and its beautiful gardens.
We dined in The Bell’s cozy bar alongside weary walkers and older couples enjoying a weekend away. Classic British cuisine with the occasional French influence is on offer, courtesy of newly appointed chef Mark Charker.
Sussex-landed cod with fava beans, lovage and fish veloute is on the menu alongside Bodiam cote de boeuf, but it’s a few notches above gastropub prices, with pâté and mashed lamb and veggies for £20.
Delicate puds include English strawberries with white chocolate and basil sorbet accompanied by pepper tuille, and Tayberries with lavender shortbread, pistachio cream and yogurt sorbet.
The next morning’s mini croissants are regrettably lukewarm, but my cooked English breakfast consists of perfectly fried bread and the tastiest eggs I’ve ever scoffed at.
